Having just returned from a hectic exhausting 23 day solo tour of Central Europe decided to explore some historical site nearer to my home city of Mumbai.The State of Maharashtra has over 350 sea and hill forts, which could take years or a lifetime to explore and i have trekked most of the significant forts including Maratha King Chhatrapati Shivaji's capital Raigad. At 55 years of age trekking steep hill forts was definitely a torture to my physical body and hence i retired from hill fort treks.Realized that the sea fort of Janjira situated approximately 165 Kms by road from Mumbai and just 55 Kms by road from Alibaug port town in Raigad district had escaped my local tour explorations.Decided to travel to Janjira through the Alibaug route which is a one hour ferry ride from Mumbai's historic "Gateway of India" .
Road map of Mumbai to Murud with important and popular local tourist sites and distances to destinations.
The Janjira Fort was originally a small wooden structure built in the 15th Century by a local Maratha fisherman Chieftain Rajaram.Patil to protect his fisherfolk from pirates.
Sea route Mumbai to Mandwa / Rewas.
The Fort was captured by Pir Khan a General of the Nizamshah of Ahmednagar and was later strengthened by Malik.Ambar ,the Abyssinian Siddi regent of the Ahmednagar rulers.The Siddi rulers later ruled Independently and were allied to Adilshah and the Mughal Empire..Attempts of conquest of this fort from the Siddi rulers by the Portuguese,British and later the Marathas failed and hence the mythical significance of this fort in Indian history. Why did the mighty Foreign Empires and one of India's greatest Kings fail to conquer a tiny sea fort called"JANJIRA" ? Decided to visit the location and view some unbelievable facts along with historical literature.
Departure Mumbai(Tuesday 1-12-2015) :- As usual woke up early and left my house in Prabhadevi at 0530 hrs.At 0545 hrs boarded the "Nos 86 " bus and was surprised that the bus fare from "Century Bazaar" to "Colaba" was Rs 22.Apologize for seeming snobbish but in Mumbai i rarely travel by public transport always using my cycle or motorcycle for commuting and hence totally out of synchronization with the average Mumbaikar cost of living statistics. I wonder what billionaire Mega star Hindi actor Amir.Khan who created a National furor by saying India was becoming unsafe for his family had to say about the cost of living for the average common man/woman in Mumbai city ?
A Chance Meeting of two Travellers on Different travel paths :- Mr Michael.Fraser on a cross country World Cycling tour
It was a pleasure ride on a traffic-less road and reached Colaba within 25 minutes, something unbelievable in normal peak Mumbai traffic.Alighted at Regal Theatre and walked swiftly towards the "Gateway of India".
28 Kgs Cross country cycle with luggage at Mandwa Jetty .
Destiny or luck favoured me and i was in the nick of time to board the 0615 hrs "Ajanta Travels" launch.Purchased the launch ticket costing Rs 105 on the launch itself. On boarding the launch i was surprised on seeing a bicycle and a young male Caucasian among the crowd.As a hobby cyclist for decades cycles interested me and i picked up a conversation with 32 year World tour cyclist Mr Michael.Fraser .His cycling exploits left me in awe akin to coming face to face with a celebrity Hindi movie star or a celebrity Indian Cricketer.He was from Edinburgh and a archaeologist by education and now a banker by employment on a one year leave for accomplishing a Global solo cycling tour .He had cycled across Europe , Turkey, Arabian Peninsular and was now cycling across India.The entire one hour launch journey to Mandwa jetty was a discussion on bicycling and was educated on the cost and method of Global cycling.His cycle's tyres cost U.S $150 U.S each and was guaranteed for 10,000 running hrs by the manufacturers!He looked very normal, the average Caucasian tourist in India or any part of the World except that he belonged to the elite league of World cross country cycling accomplished by few individuals.
"6-seater "Tum-Tum".Popular mode of transport.
On arriving at Mandwa Jetty at 0730 hrs i helped him in getting his luggage ashore where he finally packed his light luggage onto his cycle, the total weight of the cycle and his luggage amounting to approximately 28 Kgs.We walked towards the jetty gate and bid him good luck and good bye.During my decades of sea voyages and now private solo tours have come across many acquaintances with interesting backgrounds or accomplishments and Mr Michael.Fraser was among one of them.The serene village calmness,clean beach and greenery of Mandwa amazed me as just a little over a hour ago i was in Mumbai in a dense concrete jungle .I had missed the connecting launch bus to Alibaug and hence had to wait for the next shuttle bus service scheduled for 0815 hrs.Had a drink of "Neera" at the jetty which is a local juice extracted from the bark of the palm tree which is later fermented into "Palm toddy", a mild alcoholic drink akin to beer.The bus finally arrived and at approximately 0820 hrs boarded the shuttle bus to Alibaug town.
Palm and Beetle nut Plantations in Raigad district.
The bus journey was through scenic farm houses of the privileged wealthy with excellent green vegetation and forest land.Hope it remains the same and doesn't degenerate into a cluster of plush housing accommodation minus the forest and farm vegetation.At 0900 hrs reached Alibaug town which resembled a part of Mumbai city with its concrete jungle of congested streets and cluster housing accommodation.The plush green farms and forests were totally absent in prime Alibaug town. Walked towards the "S.T bus-stand" and on the way came across shared "Tum-Tum Rickshaws" which are 6-seater three-wheelers, much larger than the ordinary rickshaw.Thanks to Facebook social website acquaintances and friends and the Internet that i did get to research new tourist sites as did they through my travel blogs and articles.Korlai village and lighthouse which is approximately 20 Kms from Alibaug was my destination and the "Tum-Tum" packed with 11 passengers plus the driver was heading to Revdanda town
Crossing "Revdanda creek Bridge" on way to Korlai.
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Decided to travel to Revdanda and then further to Korlai village which was approximately 5 kms from that town.It was a rough 15 Kms ride to Revdanda through a narrow road along villages lined with palm and Betel nut plantations.Finally at 0945 hrs reached Revdanda bus stand and after paying the driver Rs 25 hired a normal rickshaw for sightseeing Korlai lighthouse and village.The cost of the entire private rickshaw tour was fixed at Rs 250, cheap if travelling with a companion.As a Catholic Korlai village attracted my attention as it was a unique village of Roman Catholic Christians that claimed ancestry to the Portuguese colonizers who once ruled this village town in the 16th century.The Portuguese built the Korlai Fort in 1521 which is today in ruins and prominently situated between the Revdanda creek and the Arabian sea.As a Marine Engineer sea-farer with 23 years of "Onn/Off Service" the lighthouse was definitely on my agenda.It was a nice drive through the "Revdanda Creek Bridge" which has the "Vikram Ispat iron ore jetty" as a landmark and finally to Korlai village which has the "Mount Carmel Church" as a prominent landmark.From the village it was a steep uphill ride along the sea coast from the base of Korlai Fort .Finally at 1000 hrs reached the lighthouse.The main gate was locked and i was the only tourist or the first tourist of the day to enter the isolated serene complex.The Lighthouse care-taker cum electrical maintenance engineer Mr Ashok.Gangurde agreed to take me on a guided tour on payment of Rs 20 for entrance fees and another Rs 20 for photography.
"Korlai Lighthouse Complex" facing the sea with Portuguese Era canons.
KORLAI LIGHTHOUSE ,FORT AND VILLAGE :- The Lighthouse is open to visitors between 1600 hrs to 1800 hrs but is rarely visited on week-days and hence the odd occasional visitor is given a guided tour.Mr Ashok.Gangurde took me to the main lighthouse tower where we had to climb a steep ladder identical to a ship engine room and it brought back memories of my seafaring employment.He explained me the entire process and machinery of the lighthouse.The Korlai lighthouse was constructed in 1955 at a slight elevation on the foot of the Korlai hill fort.It has been modernized and uses Solar power for re-charging its battery sets.He also pointed out to the "Radar" installation which was a recent addition in 2010 after the 26/11/2008 terrorist attack in Mumbai.The Coast guard can now keep track of all vessels in the vicinity through this radar.Took some photographs and again had to reaffirm myself that just in the morning i was at home in Mumbai city.There are only three lighthouses on the Raigad Coast and Korlai lighthouse is one of the three lighthouses.The lighthouse was calm and quiet and the sea coast totally devoid of a human population.Was i in India or in distant Macau ? Every Foreign colonialist have left their unique impression in the Country's they colonized or regions they ruled.I have explained Korlai through a simplified pictorial essay of my visit.
At Korlai Lighthouse.
KORLAI LIGHTHOUSE BEACON.
At the Korlai lighthouse facing the Korlai Fort.
The Korlai Fort lies directly at the summit of Korlai lighthouse and accessible be large granite stairs.
Ruins of Korlai Fort as seen from Korlai Lighthouse.
This fort also called Morro or Castle Curlew was built built with permission from the Ahmednagar Sultanate on a island to protect the Revdanda sea passage This fort was meant to be a companion fort to its counterpart in Chaul.
The winding dirt road up the Korlai Fort hill leading to the Lighthouse.
"FISHING BOATS" in Korlai Jetty.On the opposite side is Revdanda Bridge and the Iron Ore Port.
Fishing and dry fish processing in Korlai village.
Dry Prawns Industry in Korlai village.
"Mount Carmel Church" in Korlai.
In Korlai village i chanced upon meeting a local Catholic Mr Jeremias.Martis who explained me the fact that the Catholic population numbering about 550 families have Portuguese as their mother-tongue language. It has evolved into a mix dialect of Marathi and Potuguese and is called "Kristi".The Catholic natives of Daman speak pure Portuguese as it was a colony of Portugal
Ancestral Houses of Korlai Catholics at Entrance to Korlai Village.
Unlike the "East Indian Catholics" of Mumbai who are also original converts to Christianity during the Portuguese era in Bombay and have Marathi language as their mother tongue the Korlai Catholics are a different Catholic community totally different from East Indian Catholic culture. Its akin to me being a Mangalorean Catholic from Mangalore which has Mangaloean Konkani as a mother tongue while there are also Goan Catholics from Goa who have Goanese Konkani as their mother tongue.In the North East states of India Christianity has a large following among Mongoloid Indians,the youngest Indian converts to Christianity.The Kerala Christians are the oldest original converted Christians of India tracing their ancestry to the arrival of apostle St Thomas in 52 AD.The "St Thomas Archdiocesan shrine" in Palayur in Kerala was established by St Thomas in 52 AD and hence the oldest christian sect in India traces its ancestry to Kerala.Although only barely 2.3 % of the total Indian population Christians in India have various different regional roots which would amaze the Colonialists who created Christianity in most parts of India let alone other religions and communities! On the World level Christmas is celebrated on 3 different dates by 3 different Christian sects of the World.I learnt this during my tour of Jerusalem in 2008 while tracing the footsteps of Gregori.Rasputin who belonged to the Orthodox Russian Church that celebrates Christmas on 7th of January along with Oriental Christians while the Armenian Christian celebrate Christmas on 19th of January. Catholics along with Lutherans(Protestants) form the majority of the World's Christian population and hence 25th of December is universally accepted as Christmas eve.A visit to the "Church of the Holy Sepulchre" in Jerusalem will confirm the different religious sects of Christianity.Akin to a anthropologist I had finally satisfied my curiosity of the Catholics of Korlai village and at 1100 hrs boarded the S.T bus situated on the village main road and began my onward journey to Murud-Janjira.
MURUD-JANJIRA Town
Murud- Janjira :- Murud-Janjira is approximately 33 Kms from Korlai village and the bus fare was Rs 50.It was a comfortable journey being a week day and hence a partial empty bus with a scenic view of the Arabian sea and the coastal vegetation and houses.The Weather was also pleasant and en-route we passed the beautiful white sand Kashid beach. After passing Kashid beach there is a hillock which offers a beautiful view of the Coastline most prominently , the "Padmadurga(Kasa ) Fort".The sea-fort of Padmadurg(Kasa ) is distinctly visible from the bus and i initially mistook it to be the Janjira Fort as we were almost in the vicinity of Murud-Janjira. Finally at approximately 1200 hrs reached Murud-Janjira town.Alighted the bus and hired a rickshaw costing Rs 80 for the 2 Kms journey to Rajpuri jetty in Janjira. Janjira is a Marathi corruption of the Arabic word Zizera..The rickshaw ride from Murud-Janjira to Rajpuri was up a inclined hill and then down towards the coast. The driver showed me the Siddi ancestral Palace situated on a hillock with a panoramic view of the Arabian sea.At approximately 1215 hrs reached Rajpuri jetty and as there was a lack of tourists was told to wait until a minimum group of 20 tourists was formed to board the sail boat. Finally at approximately 1220 hrs the required number of tourists met the sail boat passenger criteria and after paying Rs30/person we boarded the cute sail boat.I have sailed across all the oceans on various types of ships during my 23 years Marine engineering career but never ever on a "Sail Boat" assisted by manual rowing and wind power.The distance between Rajpuri jetty and Janjira Fort is approximately 700 meters and it was a pleasant boat ride.During the boat ride one of the sail crew members explained us the importance of a guide and the time allotment of 45 minutes for each boat group to view the fort and returning back to Rajpuri by the same boat.He agreed to be our guide for a fee of Rs 300/group of tourists. As i was the odd single tourist he agreed to me joining the common guided tour at a fee of Rs 100.The entire guided tour was in Hindi recited in parrot style by our experienced guide cum boatman.He was repeating the same sentences and words to every tourist boat for 365 days barring off-season monsoon days ! Everyone has to earn a living and should say that the entire guided tour was worth the money as we at least got to view and understand the important characteristics and structures of this unconquerable fort.As a self taught amateur historian myself i was just happy to be shown the various artifacts of this fort.I have given a pictorial illustrated account of the fort tour.
On the Sail boat heading towards "JANJIRA FORT".
Main Entrance gate to "JANJIRA FORT" which faces Rajpuri Jetty.
STONE CARVING ON MAIN GATE ENTRANCE WALL :- A tiger trapping 6 elephants.
This carving on the main wall facing the entrance gate depicts the might of the Siddi rulers.A tiger has 6 elephants under its control.4 of the elephants are held by the 4 legs of the big cat while its tail is wrapped around the 5th elephant and finally the 6th elephant in the grip of its jaws.
"BASTIONS" of Janjira Fort.
Janjira island Fort has a area of 22 acres with 21 rounded Bastions that are still intact and 19 towers.
Inside the ruins of Janjira fort. Until 1972 there were a few families living inside this fort premises. They were later re - located on the mainland.
The Siddi's of Abyssinian origin were initially brought to India from Africa as slaves. The Siddi's of Janjira got free from the clutches of slavery through Malik.Ambar who created the Siddi dynasty of Janjira.The tall wall was actually a 5 storied building which was the Palace of Nawab Siddi.Surul.Khan.
"CANNONS" inside the Fort Bastions. Over 80 Cannons scattered round the Fort Bastions.
At "KALAl BANGDI" Cannon weighing 22 tons.The Third largest ancient Cannon in a Indian Fort.
Inside the Fort there are 3 main large Cannons placed in a single file placed equidistant and next to each other called 1)Kalal Bangdi 2) Chavari and 3) Landa Kasam.
Inside Janjira Fort watchtower with 360* view from all sides through port holes. The Arches are Mughal Style in design.
Large 60 feet deep Fresh water lake inside the Fort.At present the water is contaminated by waste and algae.
There are 2 sweet water lakes inside the fort which are over 300 years old and this is the largest of the 2 lakes,
At the summit of Janjira Fort.
Inside Janjira Fort there is a small hill that is 80 meters in height and has a flight of 120 steps leading to its summit.A Panoramic view of the entire Fort complex and the surrounding sea can be viewed from this highest point on the Fort.Most prominent is the "Padmadurga Fort(Kansa Fort)" , one of the 5 historical seafortsbuilt by Maratha Kings and situated about 10 Kms from Janjira Fort in the middle of the sea. It was built by Chhatrapati Shivaji in 1676 to keep a check on the Siddi rulers and to aid in conquering of Janjira Fort and the Siddi empire.
Largest of the 2 Mosques on Janjira Fort.
A Secret Underground tunnel linking the Fort to the main land exists in this ruins.
The "SECRET UNDERGROUND SEA TUNNEL" between Janjira Fort and the mainland has been sealed off due to seepage of sea water onto the Island.
"Sccret Fort Escape Gate(Chor Darwaza)" leading to the sea.
Main Fort Entrance gate as seen from the Inside of the Fort.
"Lion Emblem " sculpture inside the Fort Main Gate.
There is a Arab inscription on a marble plaque which states the year Hijri 1111 or 1694 AD.
After the Janjira Fort Tour" our sail boat arriving to transport us back to Rajpuri Jetty.
On the Wind powered sail boat heading to Rajpuri Jetty.
While returning the boat was assisted by the winds and the sail was opened by the boats crew.We left the Fort at 1330 hrs and was a pleasant slow journey by natural sail power from Janjira Fort to Rajpuri Jetty. At approximately 1345 hrs reached the jetty, a journey of 15 minutes.
At "KASHID BEACH".
KASHID BEACH :- Hired a rickshaw costing Rs 70 at Rajpuri jetty and reached Janjira-Murud Town centre at approximately 1400 hrs.Boarded a "ST Bus" at the town centre with the destination being "Kashid Beach" and the ticket cost being Rs 30.It was a 21 Km journey via the same road highway via the Revdanda -murud highway.A excellent bus drive as it was almost empty unlike the jam packed buses on peak tourist days.Finally reached Kashid beach at 1445 hrs.The beach was clean with gleaming white sand and definitely the best beach on the Konkan coast although dangerous for deep sea swimming.The Rickshaw driver in Murud advised me to be careful while swimming in the sea in Kashid as the sea floor bed is uneven and has sudden abrupt drops. Annually a few human lives are lost through drowning at the Kashid beach.He told me that the Murud beach was safe but it has dark black sand which is common all over most sea beaches.Made my way quickly onto the beach which had numerous small open air tourist shacks akin to beaches all over the World.Entered the first shack stall named "Arnav Stall" and first opened up my hamper to have lunch.Beer was not available at the shack and hence along with a loaf of bread consumed the delicious packed fried prawns cooked early in the morning by house-keeper Sabina .Dias .She is a excellent expert talented cook in "Non-Vegetarian /Vegetarian food" having learnt the trade under a bit of advice from me. I relish good food and that's the reason i have put on excess weight although my hectic solo trips do help me reduce as i burn out my excess fat .After finishing my very late lunch at approximately 1500 hrs changed into my swim trunks and kept my haversack at "Arnav Stall". The stall was managed by a young lady and i wouldn't be surprised if India's most famous media man Mr Arnab.Goswami was its inspiration.
"KASHID BEACH" :- Tourists playing "Beach Volleyball" along the beach.
Kashid beach is 3 Kms long between two rocky hills. One of the hills is visible in the photo which forms the extreme boundary of one end.
Horse riding and Camel rides are popular on the gleaming hot white clean sand of Kashid beach.
Rudolph.A.Furtado(Selfie) on beautiful "Kashid Beach".
Kashid beach has very clean sand and also surprisingly very high and powerful waves.December is the best month for sea swimming in the Arabian sea and i wonder the power and height of these waves during peak monsoon weather of June and July.No wonder many drowning cases occur at Kashid. This beach could be developed into a excellent "SURFING BEACH" due to its high waves and sandy beach devoid of any stones or rock pebbles that could damage surf boards or cause srious injuries to surfers. Having seen the best of surfing at Kuta beach in Bali(Indonesia) i wouldn't be surprised if Kashid is developed as a tourist surfing beach. A hindrance would be the non-availability of alcoholic drinks and that's one reason that Goa trumps over some of the most beautiful beaches of the Konkan region.In fact Kashid beach was not popular until the 1990's when tourists visiting Murud-Janjira noticed this excellent white sand beach and flocked to it over the decades.Today the beach has all types of water sports and its time that liquor permits are issued to the tourist shacks to transform the beach into a World class facility.This beach is definitely a "SURFERS PARADISE".At 1545 hrs finished my sea dip and after a bucket of fresh water bathe at "Arnav Stall" change-room costing Rs 20/bucket changed into my clothes and made my way to the highway road next to the beach.
Crowded Alibaug town :- Far from the beautiful beaches.
Boarded a "Borivili ST Bus" on the main road next to Kashid beach road at 1600 hrs and began my journey towards Alibaug.At 1715 hrs reached Alibaug main bus-stand and walked towards the "Ajanta Launch office" .Purchased a bus/launch ticket to Gateway of India pier costing Rs 105.At 1730 hrs boarded the "Shuttle Bus" to Mandwa Jetty.Reached Mandwa jetty at approximately 1815 hrs and quickly made my way to the launch boat jetty.There was not much of a crowd on the launch heading to Mumbai but observed a large crowd in a queue awaiting to board our shuttle bus heading back to Alibaug. Seems a lot of Alibaug residents work on the mainland in Mumbai and return back to Alibaug by launch in the evening after office or factory hours.
End of a days whirlwind tour of Raigad District :- Departure by launch from Mandwa Jetty.
A comfortable launch ride on the top boat deck. The launch left Madwa Jetty at approximately 1830 hrs.Sea gulls followed our launch for quite a distance literally pecking tit-bits from passengers hands. Seems they are accustomed to being fed by launch passengers. AS beautiful sight at dusk.
Anchored Ocean Bulk Carrier Ship:- Nostalgic Shipping memories revived during the "Mandwa-Gateway of India" launch ride.
The one hour launch ride back to the Gateway of India was nostalgic reviving memories of over 2 decades spent on ships employed as a "Marine Engineer".Passed alongside a few anchored yachts , barges and canoes. This large bulk carrier in the photo was one of the ships that we passed along on our way to Gateway of India ferry Jetty. Finally at 1940 hrs we reached the pier.The entire Gateway of India complex was barricaded in preparation for the Indian Navy week celebrations to be held the next day from Tuesday(1-12-2015) until Friday(4-12-2015).After over a decade i had travelled on the ferry launch service between Gateway of India and back.I quickly made my way towards Colaba and boarded the "Nos 44" bus to experience one of the longest bus rides back home to Prabhadevi. This same bus journey by "Nos 86 " bus early in the morning took me just 25 minutes. Boarding the "Nos 44" bus at peak traffic hours at 2000 hrs resulted in a torturous one and quarter hour journey finally reaching Prabhadevi at 2115 hrs! Bizarrely in a single day i had experienced the fastest as well as the slowest point to point bus journey in Mumbai City.Walked to my house happy to have accomplished a adventurous tour of self discovery of the Raigad Konkan coast,"Janjira Fort" was no more a mystery to my theoretical historical knowledge.
P.S :- In March-2016 Cyclist Mr Michael.Fraser whom i met on the launch finally completed his mission of cycling 16,000 Kilometers through 27 Country's over 9 months .He later competed and won the coveted "IRON MAN" title in New Zealand.He left home for London from Auckland airport on Thursday(10-3-2016).Among Indians former model and actor Milind.Soman is most famous and unique for having won the gruelling "Iron Man" competition in New Zealand.
